Melody’s Piano Bar

Credit: Melody’s Piano Bar

This might just be my new favorite spot on the Upper East Side. Melody’s Piano Bar, located in the former Lexington Bar & Books, is the best kind of fancy fun.

Brothers Tom and Anthony Martignetti, owners of East Pole restaurant on the UES, were regulars at Lexington Bar and Books, so it feels only natural that they would take over the new (but still classically old-feeling) space. The room is gorgeous, with palm-printed Versace wallpaper, black-and-white checked floors, vintage art deco fixtures, and a working fireplace.

Credit: Melody’s Piano Bar

On the night we visited (8pm-ish on the weekend), we were able to find a small table in the back, ideal for watching the live piano singer. The crowd was mixed, but everyone seemed to be drinking one thing: martinis. In an email with the PR rep, I was told that Jimmy Fallon, Ramona Singer, Mr. Big, and Alfonso Ribeiro were regulars.

Melody’s Piano Bar is located at 1020 Lexington Ave.

A solo pianist starts at 6 p.m. each night and a jazz trio performs between 9 p.m. and 1 a.m. Special guest entertainers on Saturdays from 1 a.m. until 4 a.m. $20 cover after 8 p.m.

3 Incredible Specialty Food Shops on the UES

Sometimes it feels as if we live in a sea of chains—especially when it comes to grocery shopping. So I’d like to highlight my three favorite food specialty shops on the Upper East Side, each unique in their offerings and a staple of our neighborhood.

Dorian's Seafood Market: This small shop on York Avenue has some of the neighborhood’s freshest seafood. Owner Dorian Mecir, former manager of the Rosedale Fish Market, is passionate about quality fish. The selection here is vast: brook trout, gray sole, red snapper, or sea bass. There’s monkfish, tilapia, flounder, sole or salmon, sturgeon, swordfish, and mako shark. And shellfish such as shrimp, lobster, crab, oysters, clams, mussels, and scallops. Plus, there’s a small assortment of prepared dishes and salads as well.

Shaller & Weber: This butcher shop dates back to 1927 when Ferdinand Schaller (once a sausage maker in Stuttgart, Germany) opened his business in Yorkville. The friendly market sells an assortment of authentic German meat and sausages, as well as fine cheeses and candies. Perhaps a lesser known fact is that the deli counter makes a fantastic sandwich.

Ottomanelli Brothers: One of our all-time favorites, Ottomanelli’s has been family owned and operated for over 100 years, and is a great place to get a cut of meat. And if you’re looking for a local spot to get your Thanksgiving turkey, this is it (just be sure to order in advance). Sadly, the Ottomanelli locations have dwindled over the past years (how I miss their cozy UES restaurant), but this stalwart is still a longstanding staple; in fact, writer Harper Lee would visit the shop each day when she was a Manhattan resident.

What to Order at Lexington Candy Shop

Have you been to Lexington Candy Shop? It’s an institution on the Upper East Side that dates back to 1925 and has been continuously owned through three generations of family.

The atmosphere here is authentically retro with a soda fountain and counter, along with booths for larger groups (or a twosome). The 97-year-old luncheonette feels as if you’re stepping back in time and they still make cokes the old-fashioned way with coca-cola syrup and soda water, and the lemonade is made on order; the lemon squeezed on the spot and stirred with a sugar syrup and crushed ice.

But my absolute favorite thing to get at Lexington Candy Shop is the strawberry egg cream. Sure, I love a chocolate egg cream and even a vanilla egg cream, but the strawberry is extra special, with real pieces of fresh berry. Pair that with the tuna melt and it’s one of my favorite lunches on the UES.

Lexington Candy Shop is located at 1226 Lexington Avenue, at 83d Street.

Possibly the Upper East Side’s Best Sushi Deal

Anyone else do Sushi Sunday? For the past decade-plus, we’ve been going to Isohama for their “early bird” sushi special. (This intro really makes me sound old.)

This small and cute restaurant has been open since 1997, and while I know there are lots of sushi specials in the neighborhood, this one has stood the test of time because it’s actually really good. I should give the caveat that this is not Nobu or Sushi of Gari, but it is a great place for a simple sushi dinner.

The restaurant’s early bird special is available each day from 5pm to 7pm and costs $17.50 for soup or salad, an entree, rice, and dessert (which is always ice-cream). There are plenty of choices, but we almost always get the same thing: Maki Combination for Nate with California, tuna, and spicy yellowtail rolls; and the Maguro "N" Sake for me, which is three tuna and salmon nigiri and a California roll. You can also get cooked food like tempura or yakitori.

Something else I love about the place is that the staff is so nice, and they’ve all worked there forever and seem to remember us each time we come in, which is always a nice feeling in NYC.

Isohama is located at 1666 3rd Ave, btw 93rd & 94th.

Jeremy’s Cocktail Bar Opens on UES

I’m so thrilled to have a new cocktail bar in the neighborhood, and even better that it comes from third-generation owner, Jeremy Schaller, of Schaller & Weber.

We visited Jeremy’s this past Saturday night (the day after the official opening) and popped in about 8:15 to inquire about a spot. The super-nice doorman let us know that we could come back in about 45 minutes and have a drink—easy enough. We passed the time getting a quick app at Jaques and then arrived at 9-ish for a cocktail.

The place is small and it was busy. But that sort of made it a more festive and fun environment. By the time we arrived, it was standing room only and we found a perch for our drinks near the bar. We each ordered a gin martini (a Gibson for Nate and olives for me), which was perfectly made. The bartender, Morgan, was also incredibly friendly.

There was live jazz playing and the crowd seems to be a total mix of people, which you don’t always see in this neighborhood. There was some serious fashion on display, too. I love that Jeremy’s feels a bit different than anywhere else on the Upper East Side—and that’s a good thing.

What to do on Thanksgiving on the Upper East Side

Thanksgiving in New York City is pretty magical. The weather is cool and crisp, but not yet miserably cold. It’s the time of year that ushers in the holiday season and feels extra festive. We like to spend our Thanksgiving at our apartment on the Upper East Side and, over the past decade-plus, have found our recipe for a great Thanksgiving Day in the neighborhood.

We usually start planning our menu a month or so in advance, and buy most of our ingredients ahead of time, when possible. I tend to get most of the ingredients for sides at Whole Foods and sidewalk fruit+veggie stands. Nate likes the turkey from Ottomanelli’s, which he orders in advance.

On Thanksgiving morning, we’ll pack a small cooler of mimosas and bagels and walk across the park to see the floats lined up for the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade. After, we come home and put some football on the TV and cook and eat and cook and eat.

If cooking is not your thing, Time Out has a great list of neighborhood restaurants open on Thanksgiving Day.

Best BYOB Restaurants on the Upper East Side

For as many restaurants as there are on the Upper East Side, there are few BYOB places to eat. Being able to bring your own bottle of wine not only offsets the cost (as in you’re not paying a hundred dollars for a bottle of Barefoot), but you get to choose what you drink. Here are a few notable BYOB places on the UES.

Afghan Kabab House II I’ve not been to this BYO in quite a few years, but it was a fun way to try something new and the food was really good. We walked by last weekend and it was super busy during dinner.

Poke Restaurant This cash-only restaurant that serves good sushi and is especially nice for sitting outside. I can’t say it’s the best sushi I’ve had, but a win for BYO.

Agora Turkish Restaurant My mom requests this restaurant when she visits us in NYC—the food is delicious and it has a charming vibe, both in and outdoors.

Amura Japanese Cuisine: This place is on my list as it consistently gets great reviews.

Wa Jeal Chili House: Delicious Sichuan food.

And two I’ve not yet tried: Tanoshi Sushi and Indian Palace.

Did I leave anything out? Tell me your favorite BYOB UES restaurants on the comments.

Notable New Openings

Here, a few openings I’m excited about on the Upper East Side.

Vanessa’s Dumplings: I stopped by the newest location of this beloved dumpling shop on Friday evening, after being open for just one hour. And the tables were full at 9 p.m. I was told that delivery would start up soon. I’m excited to order a dumpling delivery on a cool fall evening.

Jeremy’s: From the third-generation owner, Jeremy Schaller, of Schaller & Weber, this will be the Upper East Side’s newest cocktail bar. Just two doors down from the butcher shop, this 25-seat bar is set to open on Sept 21. The menu will be a spin on classic cocktails alongside Austrian wines and schnapps.

Melody’s Piano Bar: This new, but old-school piano bar opened quietly this past April and stays open until 4 a.m on weekends. From Tom and Anthony Martignetti, owners of the East Pole, this lounge-y bar will have nightly piano music. I can’t wait to check this one out.

UES GEM: Artful Craft Cocktails (With a Great Happy Hour)

The cocktails at NR are truly a work of art. Located at 339 E. 75th Street and 1st Avenue, NR is the sophomore restaurant from Shigefumi (Shige) Kabashima—of ROKC in Harlem. Kabashima is no stranger to the craft cocktail scene; he’s a veteran of New York speakeasy Angel’s Share, the breakout cocktail bar that introduced the city to the art of Japanese bartending in 1993. He brings that same talent to NR, which has been open since 2019. But here’s the thing: I don’t hear a ton of people talking about it and I almost seem to forget that this incredible bar is in our neighborhood.

The vibe is meant to mimic the turn-of-the-19th-century port towns in Japan, with dark wood accents and vintage decor. Cocktails are a big draw here and it’s a treat to sit at the bar and watch the team work their magic, meticulously tinkering with each beverage until it’s absolutely perfect. The result is a drink that’s not only delicious, but beautiful, often served in an elaborate vessel. A few standouts: The Grapefruit, Coconut Curry, a spicy Cucumber, and Our Negroni.

And while cocktails are a big deal, the space feels warm and inviting, ideal for dinner. NR specializes in ramen noodles of Chinese origin, with offerings like a Summer Cold with a chilled broth, Sea Urchin + Salmon Caviar, and Yuzu + Truffle Vegetable. You can also find a selection of apps and curry. But the very best part might be the oysters—they’re some of the best I’ve had in the neighborhood, served with a house-made mignonette and available on happy hour for $1.50 every day until 7 p.m.

UES Gem: Kitchen Arts and Letters

Have you been to the wonderful Kitchen Arts and Letters? Located at 1435 E. Lexington, between 93rd and 94th Street, it’s a business that marries a local bookstore with food and drink. Basically, a dream come true.

Kitchen Arts and Letters opened in 1983, and has since been serving the neighborhood (and city) with books that cover a broad range of food history and science to recipes to award-winning food writing. You can also find limited editions and signed copies here. Of course, Julia Child and James Beard were among their early customers.

I love popping into this shop when I want to buy a unique gift. I’ve bought New York City cookbooks for friends who moved away; I’ve purchased a meat-curing cookbook for my brother-in-law; and I’ve bought a handful of books for family members and friends who love to cook—and eat. Plus, they’ll wrap it in a pretty package for you!

The Best Gelato is on the Upper East Side

Anyone else notice that there are about a zillion options for ice cream on 2nd Avenue? You can find a handful of frozen yogurt shops and even vegan ice cream. But my all-time favorite is Anita La Mamma del Gelato at 1561 2nd Ave and 81st Street.

This boutique shop was started in 2002 as a small Tel Aviv storefront by Nir and Adi Avital, and their mother, Anita. Fast forward about 20 years, and Anita has become a small chain with locations everywhere from Australia to the Upper East Side.

Not only is the store super pretty (great for a date night), but the gelato is handmade and tastes so rich and decadent. It does feel a bit overwhelming due to the mind-boggling amount of flavor options, like mascarpone ricotta, tiramisu, pavlova, and the cookieman (made with hazelnut, meringue, caramel, mascarpone, and Campari), but the staff is patient and happy to let you sample whatever you’d like.

I love the dairy-free dark chocolate and pistachio—even better ordered together. Be warned: In warmer weather months, there’s almost always a line snaking down the block, but don’t be discouraged—it moves quickly.

UES Gem: Breads Bakery

Liz Ligon for Union Square Partnership

Have you been to Breads Bakery, located at 3rd Ave and 74th?

Years ago, I went to the Union Square location that serves as the company’s production hub, and was blown away by the baked goods. When they recently opened a location on the Upper East Side, I was thrilled.

People go nuts for the black and whites (I like mine more cake-y than croissant-y), but my absolute favorite things to get at Breads is the challah and the chocolate babka, which is swirled with Nutella and dark chocolate. But there’s also the sourdough baguette, buttery croissants, and a really good cinnamon roll. I also love that you can order loaves and bread online as a gift. What bakeries do you love on the UES?

The Iconic Papaya King is Facing Possible Demolition

After 90 years, Papaya King, the famous Upper East Side hot dog and tropical drink stop, is facing demolition. Patch website reported that developer Extell – known for its luxury apartments — has filed plans to tear down the entire low-rise corner, which includes the flagship location of Papaya King; Extell reportedly acquired the lot for $21 million in 2021.

The New York Times explains that Papaya King’s founder, Gus Poulos, was a Greek immigrant who started out in the 1930s with a Brooklyn juice stand called Hawaiian Tropical Drinks, and then opened Papaya King on the Upper East Side in the late 1940s. He added hot dogs a few years later.

So far, a closing date has yet to be set and there’s been little news on the development. I think it’s sad when these towering luxury condos replace iconic New York businesses. And while I may not eat hot dogs, I’ve been going almost every day for one of the Banana Daiquiri, Strawberry Fields, and Coconut Champagne drinks.

My Absolute Favorite Pizza on the Upper East Side

Heart-shaped pizza at San Matteo Pizza and Espresso Bar

Choosing the best pizza on the Upper East Side is no joke; there are so many excellent options. But my all-time favorite pizza in the UES is San Matteo. The owners have more than one location on the UES, but we love the San Matteo Pizza and Espresso Bar, mostly because it’s the one we’ve been going to for years, and don’t we all love a place where you feel like a regular? The restaurant is so cozy with its small interior and pizza oven; but you’ll find outdoor seating too, which is lovely in the warm weather months. Plus, I absolutely love the owner here and his daughter and just the entire staff. I think we’ve probably been to this restaurant almost 100 times and we almost always get the same thing: Burrata salad, margarita pizza, tiramisu (or whatever dessert), and a bottle of whatever wine is recommended. If you go on Valentine’s Day, they’ll make you a heart-shaped pizza (which you can also take to-go.)

And not to discount slices, but my favorite right now is Mimi’s pizza at 217 East 86th St. It’s a bit newer and so, so good. Tell me: What’s your favorite pizza in the neighborhood?

The “Only Murders in the Building” Diner is Actually on the Upper East Side

Have you seen the Hulu series Only Murders in the Building? No spoilers, I promise, but I love this show—especially the Canadian-American treasure Martin Short. In season two of the series, the cast spends a lot of time in The Pickle Diner, meant to be located on the UWS. The restaurant is actually called The Mansion Restaurant and Eatery and sits on the corner of York and 86th Street; and according to the diner’s website, The Mansion has been around since 1945.

Like a lot of New Yorkers, we have our favorite diner. When the New Amity diner on Madison Ave. recently closed, we decided to try The Mansion, and it was fantastic. The restaurant is close to our apt (a must, right?) and the food is really good and the service is so kind and efficient. You may not always see celebs but it’s a very solid choice for your go-to neighborhood diner.

The Mansion Diner is located at: 1634 York Ave, New York, NY 10028

For a Special Occasion: Marky’s Caviar

If you’re looking to celebrate a special occasion or just splash out on the Upper East Side, there’s Marky’s Caviar. Located on Madison Avenue and 81st Street, Marky’s is both a retail space and a restaurant. The pretty front counter is filled with various styles of caviar where you can buy all sorts of tins, from an Alaskan trout roe for $25 to Beluga for $850. There’s even a vegetarian “caviar.” You can also purchase accoutrements like blinis, creme fraiche, hard-cooked egg, etc, along with other gourmet speciality items. The back of the shop is devoted Huso’s, serving caviar-accented lunch and dinner. I once went with a dear friend who was visiting me from New Orleans and we sat by the front window (great for people watching on Madison) and drank a bottle of Champagne and split a sampling of caviar and accessories. For something a lot less expensive but still fun and special, we’l often buy a tin of the smoked trout roe for $35 and have an at-home celebration.

Where to Eat on the Upper East Side During New York City Restaurant Week

I think this year’s New York City Restaurant Week might be the best yet, at least for the Upper East Side. So what is NYC Restaurant Week? The program began 30 years ago and—this year—lasts a total of 30 days to commemorate the occasion. Here, you can find prix-fixe menus at hundreds of NYC’s restaurants—across all boroughs—that offer lunch and/or dinner menus for $30, $45, and $60. A few standout deals on the Upper East Side:

Cafe D’Alsace: One of my favorite restaurants on the Upper East Side is serving lunch and dinner for restaurant week. Standout dishes: homemade duck terrine, summer risotto, and lavender creme brûlée.

Felice 83: I finally had a chance to try this restaurant this spring and it was really delicious and the service was great. I can’t wait to sit outside now that the weather is nice. Standout dishes: arancini, milanese, and tiramisu.

Dowling’s at the Carlyle: I love the atmosphere at the Carlyle, and this is a great chance to try a handful of dishes for a reasonable price. Standouts: shrimp cocktail, the wedge salad, Murray’s roasted half chicken, and the ice cream sundae.

Here’s a direct link to those participating in the Upper East Side Restaurant Week.

Spotlight On: Le Grand Triage Wine Shop

There are so many great wine shops on the Upper East Side, but my all-time favorite is Le Grand Triage, located on First Avenue, between 86th & 87th. What I love most about this place is that the selection is really unique and the staff is so approachable and helpful. I often go in with an idea of what I might like to buy and then go with whatever recommendation I’m given. To me, this place feels more like a boutique experience than, say, one of the bigger box stores. You can stop by in the evenings Thursday through Saturday nights for a free tasting. We’ve also been a member of the shop’s wine club for a year-plus, which is so fun. Basically, you pay a $50 monthly fee and receive two wines each month (classic or fun/geeky wines—your choice). The bottles are selected by the sommelier and aren’t available in the store, so you can try some unique wines. Plus, they’re delivered to your home on the Upper East Side.

The Perfect Picnic in Central Park

One of my favorite things about living on the Upper East Side is the proximity to Central Park. Since moving to NYC in 2007, the only other place we’ve lived was on Ave C in the East Village for one year, and while I loved that neighborhood, too, I really missed going to the park. 

One of our favorite activities is having a picnic in Central Park. There certainly aren’t any rules to picnicking in the park, but there are a few things that I like to bring and do. 

First, decide when you’re having a picnic. We’ve done brunch/am picnics with bagels from Tal, cream cheese spreads, lox, and mimosas. You can have a lunch picnic, where we’ll often stop at Milano’s for Italian sandwiches and grab-and-go sides. Or, you could do the aperitivo picnic, where we’ll bring along wine or canned cocktails and small apps like chips, nuts, cheese and crackers etc. 

Over the years, we’ve rounded out out picnic gear to include the following, which makes it more festive and fun, but there’s still not too much to carry.

Wine and snack tray: This tray is fun and functional. I purchased this one on Amazon for a gift and it’s perfect for a bottle of wine and a sturdy table for a few snacks. Plus, it’s easy to carry, and folds up to fit easily in our tiny apartment.

Picnic backpack: I love the idea of a basket, but this backpack has proven to be a lot more practical. This thing has everything you need for a picnic for four people including an insulated cooler for food storage, waterproof blanket, wine cooler, wine opener, cutting board, cheese knife, plates, glasses, cloth napkins, and cutlery.

A portable speaker for tunes: We’ve had a few portable speakers over the years and this one is by-far the best—plus, it’s a fraction of the price of a Bose or other brand name. This speaker is waterproof and the battery lasts forever.

That’s all, just take off your shoes (sneakers make for the perfect cup holder), and chill out with a picnic in Central Park.

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The Best Martinis on the Upper East Side

There’s something so perfect about a well-made martini. How do you take yours? I’m all about gin, a splash of vermouth, and olives. A twist can be nice, too. And of course a perfectly chilled glass—even better if you get one of those cute little tumblers for the extra—like a milkshake leftover but for adults. There are lots of great places to get a martini on the Upper East Side, but here are a few of my favorites. Tell me: Who makes your favorite martini on the UES?

Bemelmans Bar: Let’s just get this out of the way: The martinis at Bemelmans are expensive. But along with your drink, you’ll often be treated to live piano music and a trio of snacks: house made crispy cheddar crackers, potato chips, and mixed nuts. And is there anything better than free snacks? According to a longtime bartender, the secret to the Bemelmans martini is one tiny drop of vermouth, just to coat the glass. Then, stir in a mixing glass for approximately a minute and a half until very cold, and pour into a chilled martini glass. What remains in the shaker is then poured into a glass carafe and served alongside the drink, almost like two small martinis in one.

Donuhue’s Steak House (no website): This is one of those old-school operations where all of the patrons seem to know each other and the staff knows everyone’s name. The place made news when a wealthy art collector left his favorite waitresses a $50,000 tip in his will, each. Can you imagine? The martinis here are more affordable than Bemelmans, but still come with the bonus shaker and taste just a good.

J.G. Melon: I’d probably not wait in the snaking lines for a Melon martini, but they made a very good one. This classic burger joint on the Upper East Side has a notoriously long wait, but if you’re willing to sit at the bar, you can often shave off some time. I like to sit there with the regulars, sip a gin martini, and play some music on the old juke box while I wait for my food.

Cafe D’Alsace: Newly located in what was once the old Elaine’s, Cafe D’Alsace has been a mainstay on the Upper East Side for years. The new bar is beautiful and the bartenders are friendly and make fantastic cocktails, especially when it comes to any version of a martini.

NR: This place may not be as well known as other offerings on this list, but the drinks here feel like more of a work of art than a drink. The cocktail menu is extensive and it’s fun to sit at the bar and watch the mixologists work their magic; they’re adept at just about any drink, including a classic martini. The oyster happy hour is also worth a stop.

The Penrose: A cocktail bar (with good food), that skews younger and hipper than the rest on this list, The Penrose makes a really nice martini. The menu offers a more well-known Dirty Pickle Martini if that’s your thing, but their classic is very good and comes in a pretty coupe.

Lusardi’s: This higher-end Italian restaurant may not seem like the place for a great martini, but they’re expertly made and make for a nice pre-dinner drink at their tiny bar.